Museum cloak 2 more weeks go by

Time seems to be flying. Two more weeks have gone by since the last post. Not that I have done that much weaving what with both my mother's and mother-in-law's birthdays (88, 89), my mother's and later my sister-in-laws visit. Still I try to get some done whenever I can. So here I am now

I have got into my usual trouble - running out of feathers for my design. Not to worry, I'll just change the design.  I will now have to carry on using all the feathers I can get from the birds both dark and light then perhaps a few tips of kereru. I have to find out if the Museum needs  a special permit from DoC to hold this cloak or whether it's covered in permits they already have. 

This Saturday is our weaving day at Ocean View.  I have received the Kereru from DoC so perhaps we will look at pelting them there. 

This month I am working with southern REAP teaching, hopefully, at Gore. We will see where this leads next year. This is getting exciting seeing so many people getting interested in korowai weaving. 

Museum cloak one week on

Gradually it grows, row on row. The darker feathers have given way to a pretty grey patterned feather. Looking at it now I wish I had enough dark feathers to have made the change of colour more gradual, but never mind.

  The bird has most of its back feathers of this type, very densely packed so the majority of the cloak will be of these feathers. Then I think there will be some white at the top plus kereru. I hope I can get as much done next week. It is now 45 cm and I hope to go to 110cm so I'm a third of the way there.  The middle bits can get quite tedious so I need to encourage myself somehow.

Saturday weaving September

A quiet day on Saturday with just the five of us. But it was a great day for working and getting things done.  Glenda has finished her white and pink baby cloak for a friend. This was only her third piece and you can see the improvement. On Saturday she cut the whenu for her first bigger cloak and started to cast on. This first row takes ages but persevere, Glenda, and soon you'll be on to the taaniko. She has designed her own taaniko which takes into account her European heritage and name.

 Elaine told us her daughter cried when she was given her cloak, she was so touched.

Some weren't there because of this wretched flu that is going round and we wish them good health.

And I have finally got started on the feathers for my cloak. Early days yet but I think it will work well. Remember this is the bottom of the cloak and the feathers will be flicked up to make a thick feel. It does require feathers every row but because of the size of them there is only 36 bundles per row.

Pelts

I have been doing a bit of pelting lately as birds have become available. This is one of the smaller grey albatross that I received from DoC. A friend helped me pelt it as such a big bird requires more than one pair of hands. It is thick with feathers which are tough to get off. But having them on a pelt means I can pick off the size and shape I want rather than fluffing through a big bag of feathers.

And a peacock that I got from a local farm park. It was my first pelting for ages so I'm quite proud of it. 

Better photos

At least these were taken in daylight. Hope the daycare will like it.

Finished childcare cloak

The childcare cloak is finished and looks OK. Now I can concentrate on my big cloak for the museum.  I received the birds for it from DoC today and I hope to pelt them tomorrow.

Problems and solutions

At Te Tomairangi marae I was shown a cloak made about 15 years ago. It was a very nice design and used lots of different feathers.  I saw Pukeko, kiwi, kereru, titi, and weka. It had a lovely taaniko pattern and am interesting way of attaching a tie that I haven't seen before.

 But they were having problems with feathers falling out. Partly this may have been caused by use, but on close inspection there were problems with construction that may have added to the rate of the feathers dropping. This was a very useful teaching tool and I learnt a lot about why we make things a certain way.

Firstly I noticed that the ara (rows) were done in taaniko stitch. The simple twist of taaniko was often used for the kaupapa or body of the cloak in old korowai but I don't think I have seen it done with feathers. This stitch may not be sufficient to keep feathers in.  The aho thread was wool and this was broken in a few places so the feathers were falling out as the row was compromised. Make sure the threads are strong enough and the row ended well enough so that nothing comes undone.

Secondly we saw that the aho cotton was too thick for the size of the whenu. This meant that there were gaps between the whenu so the feathers and their stalks poked through the fabric. This required a lining so that the wearer didn't get scratched. If the proportions between the thickness of whenu and aho are good, and the tension is good then there will be no gaps and a clean back is formed which will not require a lining.  The thinner the whenu the thinner the aho. The old kakahu and korowai used a very fine aho, each thread only 4 muka fibres thick.

Thirdly the feathers had not been trimmed. This may have meant the feathers were knocked out as people's arms caught on quills which stuck out. If the feather quills are trimmed to about 2.5 mm before being woven in it is lot easier as afterwards they can get forgotten or the feathers or whenu are in danger of getting cut by mistake. It also helps with feathers sitting well.

I have found such a lot to learn from all sorts of cloaks if you know what to look for. However I think for this cloak the best idea is to preserve it in a cabinet and make another to be used. It would be a pity to change it in any way in order to keep the feathers from being lost. Some of the ladies there will soon be good enough to attempt a big cloak for the marae.

Invercargill

What a lovely excursion to invercargill I had this weekend.  I went down via Gore where I visited the art gallery. What a treasure.  The most interesting store of statues and masks from the Congo, which I didn't expect to find,  and the art of Theo Schoon.  Now his work resonated with me because here was a Dutchman being inspired by maori art and becoming so immersed in it that he helped to keep some traditions alive. I feel very privileged to be able to learn korowai and then to teach it,  even though I have no maori blood.
Such a great stop, and a lunch at a cafe in town with plenty of gluten free choice.

Then on to Invercargill where the Museum visit was most inspiring. There was an exhibition of cloaks made by schools and kindis. This one made with material children's hands was fabulous and such a simple idea but very effective. 

Then after a quick visit to Bluff to see the entry to the wonderful marae there, ( I was too chicken to find the office and ask to see inside. Maybe next time), it was back to invercargill to Te Tomairangi marae.
This marae was where we were having our wananga. There were about a dozen ladies who came to learn the basics. And I was amazed at how much they got through in the Friday night and Saturday. Everyone worked at their own pace and because we will have another wananga next month there was not the pressure to get through the work before the end of the day. Hopefully everyone will have finished their last feather row by the next session. Running the weekend this way was a new trial but it was a very good alternative to a single weekend. I am very happy with how it went and grateful to Sharne and the others who made it happen.  I loved being able to stay overnight with some of the girls in the marae. Thanks again

Later

Getting there slowly.  It takes ages to do all the feather bundles but only another 200 to go.  What do you think Pauline, how long does it need to be for kindi kids?

Little korowai

As it will be another week before I can get the feathers I need for the Museum cloak I have started a small korowai using the hen feathers from the strings of feathers used in the starter kits. Using them flicked up gives a nice thick feel to the cloak however it takes lots of work and feathers as they are on every row.

This Saturday I will be at Te Tormairangi marae in Invercargill to teach weaving. If anyone is interested to pop in between 10am and 3 pm to see what we are doing or ask any weaving questions I'm sure that would be fine.  I will be down again in late October if anyone wants to book a space.

Thursday night in Temuka

I spent a lovely evening with some of the Temuka girls weaving at the marae weaving room on Thursday night. I had been up in Timaru looking after my sick mother so was able to meet up with them again. It is great to see their enthusiastic and adventurous approach to weaving.  Debs had made a lovely little basket for a tiny baby with matching korowai.

She had a great idea for making kete too. She was weaving the sides around a cardboard box the exact size of her bag. It seemed to keep it straight and even. 

Lavinia was also making bag and Vicky had some really interesting string from a trade aid shop that she was experimenting with.  

Well done girls. Great to have been with you, your enthusiasm is catching. 

The taaniko is finished

Hooray,  at last I can move on.  60 rows at an hour and a half per row over 800 whenu. It's just over 10cm wide.

Now for the next step. I have applied for some birds from DoC and hope to pick them up next week. But what design? I think I won't do all over feathers but will incorporate some tags. This afternoon I have been counting strings and tying them in knots according to my ideas. It does help to have this sorted out before you start especially making sure the sides are mirror images. My maths gets me in trouble if I don't be very careful about that. 

I have realized that on my first book "Making your first small korowai" I have made two confusing passages. The first is where I show how to do the stitch and say to cut two aho strings of different colours. The problem is we only supply one colour in the starter kit as I expect people will want to use the one colour throughout their piece. I hope people realize this and don't use the taaniko thread instead. 

The second is where I specifically say to put the feathers in with three whenu between bundles. However with the whenu we have at the moment in our starter kits being a bit thicker and some of the feathers being skinny it would have been better to say to put the feathers in as needed to make a piece with no white whenu showing whether that needs one, two or the whenu between bundles.
I hope to fix this soon but meantime I do hope people can work through these problems. 

Alexandra

Another great weekend away teaching six ladies in Alexandra.  It was lovely to meet new folk and see their enthusiastic response to the weekend and their results. This time, as well as cutting back the whenu to 34 plus the feather rows to three, we did more on the Friday night. By trying the whatu stitch and casting on we were well ahead. Saturday we finished the feather rows by lunch time and did the taaniko in the afternoon so that on Sunday we only had to do the turning row and the mawhitiwhiti and we were done. We left by lunch time. It snowed Sunday morning but the sun was out by lunch and the snow all gone. There was more snow coming over the Waihola to Taieri Mouth road than anywhere on the road from Alexandra.
Here is our group photo of proud ladies and their mahi.

There were also two ladies from Hawea way who joined us for some of the time.  Enger was working on a big korowai she had started already using Pukeko and pheasant feathers. Interestingly she was putting in the pheasant feathers singly on every second whenu instead of bundles. This saved a bit of work and because they were quite fluffy they seemed to fill in quite well.  I have seen old cloaks where feathers, especially kiwi, were put in singly but haven't tried it.  

The other visitor was working on an exciting piece using stripped harekeke and other native plant leaves. It is so good to see people experimenting with different materials. 

Tuesday with the dedicated few

The first Tuesday of the month we meet at Ocean View for a morning for chat, morning tea and weaving. This is a time I get a chance to actually weave with the girls. My piece is coming on slowly. It takes an hour and a half to complete one row as it is so big. I am halfway there now.

Elaine is putting tags on her cloak

Glenda is nearly finished her pink and white baby memorial

Helen is finishing her Christmas decoration

And Judy is working on another pattern for her taaniko sampler. 

Tomorrow I am off to Alexandra to take a weekend school.  That will be fun. The classes seem to be gathering interest quickly.  

Saturday weaving at Ocean View

This Saturday we had the pleasure of the company of four ladies from Invercargill. Our own numbers were lower today so the extras were very welcome and now they are part of us. It is so good to get together to see what everyone is doing as it stimulates ideas and interest. 

Elaine, as usual was busy on a new cloak getting bigger all the time. 

Jacquie had finished her first and had started a jute string one with a very nicely done taaniko. She had a Pukeko pelt to start the feather rows. 

Sharne started an interesting piece for her son using harekeke rolls and bleached jute string.  She also is organising a Saturday workshop with me in Invercargill at the end of August.

Donna and Paula are on to their second using the feathers flicking up or 'floating'. They have really improved and are planning their next weaving adventures. 

Jasmine continued with her first piece, I made a 34 whenu small starter piece to show the people at Alexandra next weekend and Lyann finished a row on her big taaniko.

So, all in all a good days work. Well done everyone. I am looking forward to seeing what you have done next month. 

Te Aitarakihi Weaving wananga

What a great cultural centre and lovely people at Aitarakihi.  We had a very busy weekend doing a starter korowai. I think I tired everyone out but by the end most had completed their small piece and the rest only had a few rows to go.

Many thanks for your gifts towards my petrol, much appreciated. And many thanks to Jocelyn, Debs, and Vicky who helped teach and now they are set on their way to pass this skill on to others. Such patient and fun teachers. Go girls.

Big cloak 2nd week

I haven't seemed to have a lot of time to spend on this cloak this week but I am past the quarter mark. It seems to be going well and mistakes have been able to be incorporated into the pattern so they are no longer mistakes.

We had a good day at the Museum on Sunday with two new ladies who seemed to understand the technique quickly. I also had an email from a lady from Alexandra and we hope to hold a class there soon. 

So August dates are

Saturday 1st Ocean View 10am - 4 pm (I'll be there by 9:30)

Tuesday 4th Ocean View 9 - 12:30

Friday 7th to Sunday 9th Alexandra perhaps

Sunday 16th Otago Museum 2pm

Tuesday 18th ocean view 9 - 12:30

Saturday 22nd, Sunday 23 rd Timaru possibly

I see we have 5 weekends in August so if any other place in the south wants a weekend of weaving we could arrange it. Just email me robin.korowai@gmail.com soon. 

Big museum cloak

Last week I stated a new big cloak for a friend at the Museum.  It is huge. But I have been fooled other times by thinking something was big but it ended up smaller than I would have liked. However this time I think I have overdone it.   It is about 140 cm wide with about 800 thin whenu. I cast them on double but am working the taaniko in fine thread on single whenu. 800 makes a long row.  I think I'll do a mawhitiwhiti pattern up the side so if necessary I can fold it under so is not too wide.

It took 2 full days to draw up the taaniko pattern on the computer.  It is very deep and loosely inspired by one on display at the Museum.

The first row, as per normal, took a long time.  But now as the pattern is starting to emerge it is going a little quicker.  I find I can usually only manage a row at one sitting (or standing as I usually am) before I need to give my body a rest.

I hope to have the taaniko done in a month but already I have had a three day holiday and a off day today. But when I start the feathers I hope I will get along quicker.

July Saturday

We had a lovely day today for our usual 1 st Saturday of the month. About 8 people came including 3 from Invercargill and one new lady from Dunedin. Two ladies had finished their first pieces and they were well done.

So proud of them. Congratulations Paula and Donna.  They are very enthusiastic and are already on to their second and planning the next size up on their third.

And it was great to meet two new people just starting on the journey. 

This month there will be the usual Tuesdays at ocean view and the Sunday afternoon at the Museum,  then a beginner workshop at Aitarakihi marae in Timaru on the last weekend of the month.  If any other group wishes to organize a beginner workshop, the second weekend of the months (except July) seem to be free at the moment.

Pheasant and Jute

Finished the jute Arapaki this week, and devised a new top finish which I quite like.  I was trying to work out how the old cloaks I have seen were finished. I'm not sure if I have discovered exactly what they did but I quite like this anyway.
So this is made of jute, with pheasant feathers. It has poka (shaping) and a plaited top edge with a fringe. There are black and red rope highlights.